Friday, July 31, 2009
Wednesday 29th July: Kildonan - Peninver
The wind is still not settled, but this is as good as it will get for the next few days.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0fncXT_5n-ZTl65VrH6ibTTJt-Wt2bFM7yqaIJjsvHl5dNhXlud8xnTOR4_QlMqJluPXoJU6qMQKlrCkT_uY2p8FTxF_KRG4wFH9aFQp6nDHw0BJ7ZqHJ3l9bP0GvB5uESD853fKjAwg/s200/P7290436.JPG)
The south side of Arran shows more evidence of that raised beach, and promises plenty of pleasant paddling for a possible future return trip.
For almost the entire crossing, the lighthouse on Davaar Island was visible at the seaward end of Campbeltown Loch. I was heading a few miles north of here, but the flood tidal stream sets north by about a knot close inshore to the western side of the Firth. There was no traffic, apart from a couple of yachts, all day - a sad reflection on the decline of one of our foremost shipbuilding and naval centres.
The campsite at Peninver (pronounced Pen-ee'-ver - this might be the start of a Gaelic placename nightmare...) is no longer allowed to take tents, so I had to camp on the foreshore, but was still allowed use of the showers. No complaints. Peninver has a calm lagoon bounded by a sandy beach and extensive skerries that are infested with dozens of seals (Atlantic greys, I think). For the young families enjoying the caravan site, this is almost Swallows & Amazons country. One of these families donated some fresh mackerel to my supper pot - most welcome. Served with a ready made Bombay potato side dish, this was fine dining. And the herring gulls enjoyed the trimmings.
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