Saturday, May 30, 2009

Thursday 21st May - Saturday 30th May: Skye sea kayak symposium

Enjoyed the kind hospitality of the sailing club while waiting for Dave Owen to arrive with his van. Dave had responded to my appeal for transport to Skye, and with outstanding generosity was taking a detour via S.Wales to pick me up with the boat.
We drove through the night and the following morning, enjoying fabulous views of the Scottish highlands, to arrive at this great biennial meeting of paddlers.










The Highlands are a marvellous place. People and things pretty much say what they mean and mean what they say...







My wife and friends from London arrived later on Friday evening, and we enjoyed three days of coaching sessions, from wilderness survival to Greenland rolling -- we all want to make Greenland paddles and skin-on-frame boats back in London.

After the Symposium proper, there are organised trips,











in a variety of conditions,



























but all in beautiful surroundings...


























































Everybody needs Beauty as well as Bread,
places to play in and pray in,
where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul alike.
Keep close to nature's heart, ...
and break clear away, once in a while,
and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.
Wash your spirit clean.
- John Muir
(with thanks to Kevin Mansell for sharing this)

Wednesday 20th May: Watermouth - Briton Ferry, Neath River (27 n.mi.)

Rose at 0300 and was on the water at 0510, with dawn rising in the east. Paddled out of a silent harbour at Watermouth and immediately into 150 metres of swirling, boily, eddy line that marks the ebb tidal stream. Set course 026 magnetic, chose a suitable cloud (near the horizon, but a high altitude formation, to minimise its angular speed relative to me), and paddled. A red sun broke through the early morning clouds, and the cliffs of North Devon glowed mistily-featureless and pink on my starboard quarter. There was a force 3-4 SSW right on the stern, sea state less than 1 metre, and the paddling was relatively effortless - perfect conditions. Every few minutes, I would check the heading and choose a new cloud.
After a couple of hours, the sea state built a bit and the boat started corkscrewing. In these conditions it is harder to hold an average course, so I would check the GPS every couple of hours and adjust accordingly. GPS really makes you lazy!
By 0900 I was entering Severn VTS's area, but there was no point calling them up, because with an antenna height of less than a metre it would be futile. Unidentified seabirds skimmed the waves, and the thrum of distant engines filled the hull. Only one vessel appeared: a bulk carrier at anchor off Swansea.
Stopped for a bite of lunch, and when the Neath channel buoys hove into sight, I steered 025 for them. I can't pretend that this was just skill: a large element of compensating error was clearly involved! However, it's nice to confirm that vector addition does what it says on the tin.
By 1430, I had ridden the flood up the Neath River, hauled up on the slip at Monkstone Cruising and Sailing Club, under the M4 motorway bridge, and pitched camp in the boatyard.

Tuesday 19th May: waiting on weather

Tomorrow's forecast looks OK for paddling, so spent the day preparing for the Bristol Channel crossing. The tidal streams in the Bristol Channel are very strong, so you have to mark up the chart with the necessary vector triangles, to make sure that paddling + tidal stream + leeway = where you want to go. The theory is much simpler than this site suggests. Phoned Swansea CG and filed a trip report with a rather worried watch officer.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Friday 15th - Monday 18th May: Cabin fever...

Stuck in Watermouth, waiting for SW gales to abate.  The view from the cliffs reveals white water as far as the eye can see - definitely not the right conditions for a 20 mile crossing with a lee shore at the far end.
I'm looking forward to taking a week off next week, to meet friends (my wife not least among them!) and go paddling in Skye at the sea kayak symposium; however there's the small question of getting there with the boat.

Meanwhile...
A German friend (hi, Justus, if you're lurking!), once remarked to me that his English teacher (an Americaine) claimed that, in English, "there ain't no noun that can't be verbed!"  Well, how about "porridge"?  As the anxious cook looks up from the camp stove to regard the slate-grey clouds tearing from the brow of the windward hill, he reflects: "Will it rain before it porridges, or will it porridge before it rains?"  No, porridge (v.i.) will not do.  However, it seems that the transitive form of the verb would work: to porridge someone must be akin to custard-pie-ing them, but an altogether more gruelling experience for the recipient.
And then again, maybe the word was originally a verb, having to do with turning oats into sustenance.  I must look up Dr. Johnson on the subject...

Friday, May 15, 2009

Thursday 14th May: Westward Ho - Watermouth (16 n.mi.)





A short leg today, to position myself for crossing the Bristol Channel.  Barbara was in touch, proposing a trip to Lundy but, much as I would love to go there, I'm catching up on the miles.


At each headland, the nature of the coast changes.  
Here at Bull Point, the green surface of North Devon starts to sweep down from the clifftops.






Met paddlers Michelle & Clive, with their dogs Tilley (black lab.) and Pudding, fishing for bass just east of Lee Bay.  Camped in the rain on the site immediately east of Watermouth hbr, and I'm expecting to be here for a day or two as the forecast is for more gales.  There's a weather window tomorrow morning, but I suspect that the vis will be down owing to rain and, since I'll be crossing a major shipping lane, I'd rather like to be able to see what's about to run me down.

The campsite here hires sit-on-tops, presumably to anyone who asks.  The tidal stream along this coast reaches 4 knots at springs.  Must remember to ask them about this...

Wednesday 13th May: Bude - Westward Ho (23 n.mi.)

At last the easterlies have abated, and I can round Hartland Point without the risk of a major deterioration of sea state.  Rose at 0500, to allow time to punch against the ebb off the west coast and arrive at Hartland around slack water.  





There are numerous skerries off the cliffs here, as the coast cuts across the grain of the folding of strata.  Looking at photos of yet another bunch of rocks must be a bit like listening to someone humming.  You just hear the hum, but the perpetrator hears the whole orchestra.  The photos are just pale two-dimensional things that utterly fail to capture the way the panorama unfolds as you paddle past.  Armchair mountaineering.


In the event, I made good progress and was able to stop at Hartland Quay for a pasty and chips, and still catch the tide round Hartland Pt (which was already flooding close inshore an hour earlier than prediction).  
We are advised to "take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints", but I confess that, even in these calm conditions, the rocky landing at Hartland Quay has claimed a fair bit of my gelcoat.



Westward Ho matches Mr.Rainsley's "grim" description and, with apologies to the several friendly folk I met there, my abiding memory will be that of a glowing cigarette end passing by in the gloom, attached to a dark, hooded, figure on a skateboard, rattling past in pursuit of his dog.  The most secluded camping appears to be at the west end of town, on what appears to be a static van park.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Tuesday 12th May: waiting on weather

Down in the harbour... what's this? Why, it must be a salty old sea dog. (groan)

Meanwhile, back at the campsite, it's time to dry the laundry. Someone has been reading a Patrick O'Brien novel (thanks Mike), and seems to have square-riggers on the brain.

The forecast is looking good for tomorrow.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Monday 11th May: waiting on weather (again)

There's a high pressure system over the north of Scotland, from which the met office is forecasting easterlies up to force 9 inshore North Cornwall. It scarely seems credible; however I can't afford to take chances as the next headland, Hartland Point, leads on to a committing section of coast that would be fully exposed to these headwinds. So I'm steeling myself for another couple of frustrating days ashore.

Sunday 10th May: Boscastle - Bude (13 n.mi.)

The YHA hostel in Boscastle was empty and deserted last night so I took a berth in a B&B overlooking the harbour. Hosts Jack (mandolin player) and Fay (gig rower, just back from the internationals in the Scillies) were kindness itself. Left the harbour at low water and in relatively calm conditions - what a difference a day makes!




(cooling off - photos: Marion Ince)






Paddled past contorted strata in the cliffs; saw the first seal of the trip (where have they all been?); thought better of the surf at Northcott Mouth, and doubled back to Bude.












At Bude it is possible to avoid the surf altogether, with careful timing, by following the leading marks past the headland on the south side of the beach, seen here from the harbour mole.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Saturday 9th May: Padstow - Boscastle (17 n.mi.)

Finally, back on the water. Launched from the dinghy club slip on the camel trail, but it was low water so I ended up towing the boat a fair distance. Got caught by surf on the Doom Bar, and took a swim, but my re-entry roll worked OK and I pumped out and continued, taking shelter in the lee of the headland, and again at picturesque Port Isaac, to finish the job.
Tintagel Head looked magical in the afternoon sun, but I was mistaken to think that there would be some shelter from the 2-3 m atlantic swell in its lee. Off the headland there was a very confused sea with plenty of clapotis, and in its lee the seas were more regular but, if anything, larger. All this made the entry into the small port of Boscastle interesting to say the least - and probably quite fun for the sightseers on the cliffs. (Some were taking photos, and I'd love a copy)
Alas, no photos today as I'd forgotten to put the battery back in the camera - doh!

Friday 8th May: waiting on weather

Sea state was huge today - 15ft surf forecast for Constantine, and when I looked there the sea was a mass of white 150 m from the shore. Definitely a day to be ashore. Walked up to the new lifeboat station and marvelled at the Tamar class all-weather boat. She is a thing of beauty: not a bolt or a lanyard without a purpose, and all maintained to an astonishing standard.
Spring is about to turn to early summer: the thrift is in blossom, and countless other plants whose identities elude me. For all this, however, you'll just have to take my word, as the camera is back at the campsite, recharging its battery.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Tuesday 5th - Thursday 7th May: Waiting on weather

A stream of fronts is coming through, accompanied by strong westerlies, so I'm stuck ashore. According to Mike F, this is known to climbers as "festering" - a singularly apt term.
A team of botanists surveying the Little Robert in the local hedgerows (similar to Herb Robert but with yellow stamens) have solved the mystery of two common plants by the Cornish roadsides:
Alexanders was introduced by the Romans as a foodstuff, similar to celery, and is easily confused with cow parsley.







Red valerian is another Mediterranean import.








Probably festering again tomorrow, especially as the surf forecast touches 4 metres, but hope to make progress after that. There are worse places to be stuck than Padstow - the local museum has a fascinating mix of lifeboat history and pagan ritual...

Monday 4th May: Mawgan Porth - Padstow (11 n.mi.)

The surf seemed a little lower this morning, maybe, so I decided to press north towards Port Isaac. Izy and Jemima helped manhandle the boat down the beach, and Mike F and Peter stationed themselves on the cliffs for a grandstand view, calling to mind a couple of old crones waiting by the guillotine for the entertainments to commence. On the first attempt, I failed to clear the final surf break and swam the boat ashore, but the second try succeeded. Unfortunately, conditions outside the break were not much better, with a stiff westerly moaning in the paddles, and seas breaking over the boat, weighing down the spraydeck, so I paused at Harlyn Bay to take stock and decided to cut the trip short at Padstow, where good shelter and the facilities of the town could be had.


Kit loss for the day was limited to the maps from my spraydeck; however the extra difficulty of using backup systems in today's conditions further reduced my safety margin and made the decision to put in to Padstow inevitable.

Sunday 3rd May: rest day

Three of us tried to punch out through the surf at Mawgan Porth in the morning, but it was too high. I'm sure Peter would have made it, but Mike H's boat suffered damage and the temptation of a day picnicking in the sun, maintaining kit, and enjoying good company, proved too much. Ran a shuttle for Mike F and Jemima to visit the Camel again, and dined al fresco by the tents, swapping yachting anecdotes.

Saturday 2nd May: rest day















A ride on the Camel? Paddling the Camel? There seems no way to describe a day on the local river without conjuring up entirely the wrong image. Conditions at sea were too challenging to take the group out safely, so we drove to Padstow and paddled inland from there in glorious sunshine. By the end of the day, our group was complete with seven paddlers, but only six boats alas. Pasties were enjoyed in the afternoon sun at Padstow.

Friday 1st May: Perranporth - Mawgan Porth (10 n.mi.)

Woke early and dried the laundry in a stiff breeze at the edge of the cliff. Manhandled the boat to the beach and was preparing to launch when a dog on the sea wall above launched itself into space, barely restrained by its owner heaving on the leash. This was my introduction to Peter and Linda Squires, whose dog (a half-breed: half dog, half lemming) has an attitude to precipices that, by rights, should have been selected out of the gene pool long ago. Peter was preparing his kayak for a solo trip, so we agreed to paddle together - a happy outcome, as he turned out to be very competent, good company, and able to plug the yawning gaps in my ornithological knowledge. We spotted (that is to say, Peter did, as I was preoccupied with boat handling) oystercatchers, gannets, fulmars (recognisable by their stiff wings and low flight), herring gulls ("your common fish-&-chip gull"), and a pair of Manx shearwaters.
I had planned to paddle to Padstow, but conditions were kicking up and neither of us fancied tackling Trevose Head in what, by then, would have become wind-over-tide conditions, so we put in to Mawgan Porth. Peter has far more experience than I do in surf, so he led the way ashore. A couple of minutes later, I saw the bow of his boat rise vertically skywards as he kindly pointed out the preferred line...
Now aware that I was in for a trashing, I followed ... failed to hold the boat square on to the surf ... had a few seconds of very high speed kayaking as the boat planed diagonally down the face of the wave ... and capsized. The deck cargo (too much of it, far too many lanyards) was all over the place, and impeded my exit (lesson learned).
Once ashore, I discovered that my spectacles had been swept away, despite their lanyard. Fortunately, my wife and friends were en route, visiting for the bank holiday weekend, bearing the prescription sunglasses to replace those lost at Sheerness. This trip is becoming seriously expensive in lost and damaged kit!
One of the joys of the expedition is meeting the locals. In Mawgan Porth, a gentleman in a cloth cap inveighed against the iniquities of nouvelle cuisine and pretentious restaurants. Given gentle encouragement, he warmed to his theme, eventually averring that the sole reason we have not been invaded by aliens from outer space is that they look through their telescopes at the offerings of the celebrity chefs and decide that Earth is not worth the trouble. Peter and I could no longer keep straight faces, and departed, debating whether this gent was a single-subject obsessive, or whether he might actually be quite versatile.
Fish and chips were procured, the cavalry arrived (complete with sunglasses) and we pitched camp at the local site.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Thursday 30th April: Hayle - Perranporth (18 n.mi.)

Up at 0500, but a late start on the journey as I had to paddle back to St.Ives to replace my mobile phone. Water ingress had stopped it working, and I assumed that the electrical fault was, ahem, terminal. Phone, drybag, pasty and enormous flapjack duly procured, I set out once again in a generally clockwise direction.
What a difference a day makes! This is the sort of weather that brings the coastal scenery to life. So I'm going to impose some photos on you...








- The light on Godrevy Island







- 100m high cliffs







- Atlantic swell ending its journey (and creating plenty of clapotis for my entertainment...)







- The waterfall issuing, perhaps from an old mine adit, high up on the cliff face

Arrived at Perranporth and, in a fit of enthusiasm, decided to tackle the surf landing. The prospect of an expedition-loaded sea kayak hammering one's head into the sand is not to be taken lightly so I put on the helmet and tried to time things sensibly. Caught a couple of (2-metre?) seas, got rolled by a third, rolled again by a fourth and this time I bailed out, grabbing the boat by its end toggle and letting it tow me ashore. The forces involved are tremendous. Everything, with the exception of some precious chocolate bars, arrived ashore safely,


but not necessarily by the same route.








Hauled the boat up to the youth hostel, where a visiting Dutch family kindly provided dinner, and where the warden has extended a warm welcome, including the use of his Mac. Every kind of chore now completed (laundry, battery charging, tides, trip planning, weather and surf forecasts) and the blog is up to date. And so to bed.